Dina Begum, a cookbook author and passionate advocate for Bangladesh's culinary heritage, showcases the rich tapestry of recipes and food traditions from her homeland. A member of the Guild of Food Writers, Dina has contributed a feature and recipe series to Great British Chefs, exploring the six seasons of Bangladeshi cuisine.
She has curated popular Bangladeshi pop-up events at Darjeeling Express, highlighting beloved home-cooked favourites as part of their #WomenInFood series. She has also participated in programs at The Museum of Food and Drink (MOFAD) and hosted a supper club at Archestratus in New York City.
Here, she discusses the traditional Bangladeshi recipes renowned during Ramadan and emphasises the importance of incorporating nutrition into meals while fasting throughout the day.
How do you personally approach cooking during Ramadan, and how has this festive period influenced your culinary style?
Traditionally, our everyday meals undergo significant changes during Ramadan, with an emphasis on sharing dishes that are unique to this time of year. This leads to a notable shift in cooking styles, particularly during the evenings. For example, we enjoy dishes such as channa bhuna, a chickpea-based delicacy, and Khichari, a Bangladeshi variation of a popular South Asian dish. Additionally, staples like lentil fritters and a variety of salads and fruits form the core components of our Ramadan Iftar meal. Grilled chicken, samosas, biryani, or pilaf are also common additions, contributing to a diverse and distinct menu. Additionally, Halim is a popular choice for the meal after breaking the fast. It's a rich dish enjoyed later in the meal. Beyond these core ingredients, our Ramadan meals often incorporate different culinary influences. We might experiment with Chinese-inspired dishes one day, and Mediterranean or Middle Eastern flavours the next. These dishes, along with others, constitute the core components of the Iftar meal, which typically includes a variety of items common in Bangladeshi cuisine.
What nutritional recommendations would you suggest for individuals to ensure they maintain adequate nutrition during this period?
During fasting periods, prioritising nutrition is crucial, and the first priority should always be hydration. It's essential to include hydrating foods, so we always have fruits during Iftar and after the fast as well. Incorporating a variety of fruits, particularly those with high water content like melons, apples, and pears, is beneficial. Additionally, opting for water or fruit juices over sugary drinks is advisable. It's also important to include adequate protein to help keep you feeling full for longer. When breaking the fast, opt for hydrating fruits and dishes that are not too greasy or heavy. Grilled foods like chicken or fish, along with staple dishes like Khichuri and chickpeas, provide both nutrition and satisfaction. Including plenty of fruits and vegetables in your meals is essential. For the pre-dawn meal, known as Sehri, focus on nutritious options like porridge or yoghurt with fruits. These options provide sustained energy and essential nutrients to prepare for the day ahead. You can also include some protein, such as chicken or fish, to make it a balanced meal.
Dina also provides readers with a special recipe from her book "Made in Bangladesh" to try this Ramadan: Patishapta, rice crêpes filled with cardamom rice cream.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
FOR THE BATTER
75 g (21⁄2 oz/scant 2⁄3 cup) fine semolina
75 g (21⁄2 oz/scant 1⁄2 cup) rice flour
150 g (51⁄2 oz/1 1⁄4 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) full fat milk
250 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) room-temperature water
FOR THE KHEER FILLING
30 g (1 oz) rice flour
30g (1 oz/1⁄4 cup) fine semolina
400 ml (14 fl oz/generous 11⁄2 cups) full-fat milk
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cardamom several strands of saffron
230 ml (8 oz) condensed milk
1. Begin by combining semolina, rice flour, plain flour, sugar, and salt in a mixing bowl to make the batter. Pour in milk and measured water, whisking well to ensure no lumps remain. Cover the mixture and set it aside for 1 hour.
2. While the batter rests, prepare the kheer filling by placing all the ingredients except the condensed milk into a saucepan. Stir the mixture thoroughly and cook over low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes, continuously stirring. Add the condensed milk and continue cooking until the mixture thickens to the consistency of choux pastry, falling off very slowly. Transfer the mixture onto a plate to cool, where it will further thicken. Once cooled, divide the kheer into 16 portions, rolling each into 13 cm (5 in) logs.
3. When ready to cook the patishapta, whisk the batter to ensure a uniform mixture, then heat a frying pan over low-medium heat. Lightly brush the pan with oil using a pastry brush. Once the oil is hot, pour a small ladleful of batter into the pan, swirling it to create a thin crepe, about 15 1⁄2 cm (6 in) in diameter. Cook for 1 minute until the batter becomes opaque and bubbles appear on the surface, ensuring the underside remains pale and does not take on too much colour.
4. Place a portion of the kheer filling slightly off-centre on the crepe. Immediately lift one side of the crepe with a spatula and fold it over the filling, then fold twice more to form a roll. Remove the patishapta from the pan and set it aside on a plate. Repeat the process until all the batter and filling are used, greasing the pan after cooking each patishapta. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
5. Once cooled, store the patishapta in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 2-3 days.
(Makes 16)
