Renowned mountaineer and former British Army Nirmal Purja and nine other climbers have been confirmed dead after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan and Purja's expedition company.
The avalanche hit the 10-member expedition during their ascent. Rescue teams have recovered some bodies, while search operations for the remaining victims continue despite difficult weather conditions.
The Nepal-born climber, who served with the Gurkhas and the UK's Special Boat Service, gained global recognition in 2019 after photographing long queues of climbers near the summit of Mount Everest, sparking debate over overcrowding and the commercialisation of high-altitude expeditions. During that climb, he helped manage the dangerous bottleneck to improve climber safety.
Despite criticism from some climbers over his use of supplemental oxygen during Project Possible, Nirmal Purja later climbed all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks without oxygen and, in 2021, led the first successful winter ascent of K2, one of the world's most dangerous mountains. He frequently raised concerns about overcrowding on Everest, warning that long queues and inexperienced climbers posed serious safety risks.
Born in Nepal in 1983, Purja grew up in a modest family before joining the Gurkhas and later becoming the first Gurkha to pass selection for the UK's elite Special Boat Service (SBS). After serving in Afghanistan, he left the military to pursue mountaineering full-time, funding his ambitious expeditions through sponsorships and personal savings. He earned worldwide acclaim for his record-breaking climbs, high-altitude rescues and the Netflix documentary “14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible”. He was also awarded an MBE for rescuing a stranded climber on Everest.
In his final social media post, Nirmal Purja described the Broad Peak climb as an unexpected opportunity and said he never took any mountain for granted. Broad Peak, first successfully climbed in 1957, is considered one of the world's most demanding peaks and has claimed dozens of lives over the years.
Speaking to Asian Voice, Chairman- Nepal Connect, an organisation dedicated to advance UK-Nepal relationship, Prashant Kunwar said, “The death of Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja in the avalanche on Broad Peak is a profound loss to Nepal, the United Kingdom and the international mountaineering community. A former Gurkha and member of the Special Boat Service (SBS), Nimsdai became one of the world’s most accomplished mountaineers. His record-breaking climbs, including summiting all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months, redefined what was thought possible and inspired millions to pursue their ambitions with courage and determination. His contribution extended far beyond the mountains. He elevated Nepal’s standing on the global stage, championed the vital role of Nepalese climbers, Sherpas and high-altitude porters, and supported mountain communities through accommodation, environmental clean-up projects, educational scholarships and opportunities for future leaders.”
He further said, “I will also remember working alongside him in support of the campaign for fair pension rights for former Gurkhas, including at no.10 Downing Street. That commitment reflected the same sense of service and purpose that defined his life. Nimsdai dreamed boldly, lived with purpose and served as an exceptional ambassador for the UK and Nepal. His achievements in mountaineering were extraordinary, but so too was his determination to improve the lives of others across Nepal and the UK. My thoughts and deepest condolences are with his family and with the families of all those who lost their lives in this tragedy.”
Colonel Tol Khamcha (Retired British Army Gurkha Officer) said, "Nirmal Purja (aka Nimsdai), born in the Myagdi district of Nepal on 25 July 1983, was far more than an extraordinary mountaineer. Nimsdai became a symbol of Nepali courage, determination, self-belief and the conviction that seemingly impossible goals can be achieved. His powerful motto, “Giving up is not in my blood, Sir’’ inspired millions around the world and came to define a remarkable life dedicated to pushing the limits of human potential. Following distinguished service in the British Army and the elite Special Boat Service (SBS), Nimsdai developed an unwavering commitment to mountaineering. As part of the Brigade of Gurkhas bicentenary commemorations of 200 years of service to the British Crown (1815–2015), Nimsdai was selected to represent the Brigade Gurkhas on an Everest expedition. Although the devastating 2015 earthquake in Nepal forced a postponement, the team successfully summited Mount Everest in 2017, with Nimsdai playing a leading role. That achievement became a turning point, inspiring a decision to leave a prestigious military career and fully dedicate life to the mountains despite concerns from his wife and close family members including his mother and borthers. In 2019, Nimsdai achieved what many considered impossible, setting a world record by climbing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks above 8,000 metres in just 6 months and 6 days. This accomplishment transformed global perceptions of mountaineering, brought immense pride to Nepal, and showcased the resilience and capability of Nepali people on the world stage. The achievement was later immortalised in the internationally acclaimed documentary, 14 Peaks - “Nothing Is Impossible”, which inspired audiences across the globe and cemented Nimsdai’s place as one of the most influential climbers in the modern history."
"Tragically, on 30 July 2026, Nimsdai and nine fellow mountaineers lost their lives in a powerful avalanche in the Broad Peak region of Pakistan. It was a profoundly sad end to a life lived with exceptional courage and purpose. The mountains that brought worldwide recognition and inspired countless people also became the final resting place of one of mountaineering’s greatest pioneers. With the passing of Nimsdai, Nepal has lost a national icon, and the world has lost a truly exceptional individual. From humble beginnings in a remote Nepali village to service with the Gurkhas and the SBS, and ultimately to becoming one of the most celebrated mountaineers of all time, Nimsdai’s journey demonstrated what can be achieved through vision, perseverance and belief. More importantly, that journey elevated Nepal’s profile around the world and inspired generations to dream bigger and aim higher. Nimsdai’s achievements, sacrifices, courage and unwavering belief that “Nothing Is Impossible” will continue to inspire people for generations to come. Although no longer with us physically, the legacy, inspiration and immense contribution to Nepal and the global mountaineering community will endure forever. Heartfelt tribute to Nimsdai. May the memories, achievements and spirit continue to live on in the hearts of Nepali people and admirers around the world. Rest in Peace, Nirmal Bhai," he added.